If I had to choose one Hawaiian island to return to again and again, it might just be the Big Island. It feels like the soul of Hawaiʻi—raw, untamed, and deeply authentic. Less polished than Oʻahu, less resort-heavy than Maui, this is where the land speaks louder than the hotels.
Arrival & First Impressions
We landed at Ellison Onizuka Kona International Airport at Keāhole (KOA), which serves the leeward side of the island, including the beautiful resorts of North Kona and South Kohala. After picking up our rental car, we headed north toward our hotel. In hindsight, I might recommend splitting your stay—perhaps four nights near Kona and three near Hilo, flying out from the opposite airport. The contrast between the two sides of the island is truly as different as night and day.
Driving from Kona Airport to our hotel, we were immediately struck by the otherworldly landscape—vast stretches of black lava fields lining the road, as if we had landed on another planet.
Where We Stayed: Westin Hapuna Beach Resort
We arrived at the Westin Hapuna Beach Resort, a luxurious oceanfront escape on the Kohala Coast. Tucked into a hillside with sweeping views of the Pacific, the resort is surrounded by world-class golf courses, luxurious hillside homes, and even the occasional wild goat crossing the fairway.
The resort is built across tiers, with breathtaking ocean views from private lanais and public spaces. The jewel of the property is Hapuna Beach—a wide, white-sand stretch of shoreline with crystal-clear water, perfect for swimming and snorkeling. Every time I slipped into the ocean, I swam alongside a graceful sea turtle—it was like something out of a dream.
We dined at Meridia, where Mediterranean-inspired dishes paired with locally sourced ingredients brought the island’s flavors to life. Add in a full-service spa, an adult-only infinity pool, and the lushly landscaped grounds, and it’s easy to see why the resort feels like a world apart.
Island Explorations
In our seven days, we explored nearly every corner of the island. What struck me most was how dramatically the landscape shifted: lush rainforest one moment, lunar-like lava flows the next, and then a black sand beach where sea turtles napped undisturbed. It felt like nature was showing off—and winning.
Manta Ray Night Snorkel
One night, we floated on the ocean just off the Kona Coast under a moonlit sky. As lights illuminated the water, giant manta rays emerged from the depths, swirling beneath us in an elegant, mesmerizing dance. Time stood still. That moment alone was worth the trip.
Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park
On the eastern side of the island, we visited Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, home to the legendary Halemaʻumaʻu Crater. We walked over steaming lava fields, explored ancient lava tubes, and drove Crater Rim Drive and the stunning Chain of Craters Road. This landscape—shaped by eruptions, smoke, and fire—is humbling. It feels like standing at the edge of creation.
Start your visit at the Kīlauea Visitor Center for trail maps and safety tips, then head to overlooks and guided tours for deeper insight into how this ever-changing island came to be.
Mauna Kea: Sunset & Stargazing
On another evening, we made the winding ascent to the summit of Mauna Kea at 13,800 feet. Watching the sunset above the clouds was unforgettable—but the real show came after dark. The stars stretched endlessly across the sky, so close and bright it felt like we could touch them. You don’t just stargaze here—you witness the universe unfold.
Cultural Stops, Coffee Tastings & Sweet Treats
We visited the birthplace of King Kamehameha the Great in the quaint town of Kapaʻau, located at the northern tip of the island in the Kohala District. The statue of King Kamehameha stands proudly in the town center—a powerful reminder of Hawaiʻi’s royal past. After exploring the site and learning about his legacy, we wandered through the charming village and enjoyed a relaxing lunch in nearby Hawi, a small, artsy town with boutique shops and cozy cafés.
No trip to Kona is complete without visiting a Kona coffee plantation. We toured one nestled in the hills above the coast, with lush grounds, sweeping ocean views, and rows of fragrant coffee trees. The tour was fun and informative—we learned about the growing, harvesting, and roasting process, and of course, ended with a tasting. Kona coffee, rich and smooth with a hint of chocolate and earthiness, tastes even better when sipped right at the source.
Another fascinating stop was the Puakō Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve, located near Holoholokai Beach Park within the Mauna Lani Resort area. This area contains over 3,000 petroglyphs, with about 1,200 visible along the short Malama Trail, which winds inland through kiawe trees and lava rock. It’s an easy, flat walk—but wear good shoes, bring water, and avoid midday heat. It’s like stepping into a natural outdoor museum, where the ancient stories of Hawaiian culture are etched into stone.
And of course, no journey to the southern part of the island is complete without a stop at the famous Punaluʻu Bake Shop—the southernmost bakery in the U.S.. Tucked away in the town of Nā‘ālehu, it’s a beloved hidden gem known for its sweet Hawaiian sweetbread, malasadas, and lilikoi-filled pastries. It’s popular with both locals and travelers, and well worth a detour. We grabbed a few treats, sat in the shady garden, and soaked in the aloha spirit.
Optional Excursions:
• Whale watching (in season)
• Snorkeling at Kealakekua Bay / Captain Cook Monument
• Waterfalls and orchid farms near Hilo
• Scenic hikes to Pololū or Waipiʻo Valley Lookouts
If I had to choose one Hawaiian island to return to again and again, it might just be the Big Island. It feels like the soul of Hawaiʻi—raw, untamed, and deeply authentic. Less polished than Oʻahu, less resort-heavy than Maui, this is where the land speaks louder than the hotels.
Parting Thoughts
As our week came to an end, we knew one thing for sure—we’ll be back.
Unlike some of the more developed islands, the Big Island doesn’t just cater to tourists—it welcomes you to connect. It invites you to slow down, look deeper, and embrace the raw beauty of nature. It’s Hawaiʻi as it once was, and as it still hopes to be.
Big Island – Volcanoes, Stargazing & Soul
Must-Sees:
• Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park
• Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach
• Mauna Kea Summit at sunset
• Waipiʻo Valley Lookout
• Hilo’s Rainbow Falls and orchid farms
Signature Experiences:
• Snorkeling with manta rays
• Stargazing above the clouds
• Sipping Kona coffee at the source
• Walking through lava tubes
• Exploring ancient petroglyphs
Where to Stay:
• Westin Hapuna Beach Resort – modern luxury with beachfront elegance
• Mauna Kea Beach Hotel – timeless style on a postcard-worthy beach
• Four Seasons Resort Hualālai – unmatched luxury, rooted in Hawaiian design
• Volcano Village Inns – cozy, charming, and immersed in nature